Visiting Eritrea: An African country on the brink of change?

HOW TO GET TO ERITREA

Turkish Airlines operate only three flights a week and are therefore somewhat less convenient. I also note that the Sudanese-owned Tarco Air lists three weekly flights from Asmara to Khartoum and could be an option for those travelling across a broader region.

The Eritrean flag carrier, Eritrean Airlines, is a bit of a dark horse. Very few online resources are available about it (in English, anyway), and none seem to agree on the basic facts about the airline, including its fleet size. Most sources quote the fleet of Eritrean to consist of one leased Boeing 737, while Flight Radar additionally shows a Boeing 767. Assuming the 767 is the aircraft I saw permanently parked at Asmara International Airport, it cannot possibly be flying: with its rust-streaked tail and fuselage and sealed nacelles, it looked decidedly non-flightworthy. And, suspiciously, in all existing imagery, be it travellers’ photos or satellite, the 737 parked at Asmara airport never seems to change position.

ARRIVING IN AND LEAVING ERITREA

To enter Eritrea, you will need to have an Eritrean visa in your passport or to have pre-arranged a visa on arrival. Having heard stories of the lengthy application process at the Eritrean Embassy in London (reportedly involving an interview), I opted for a visa on arrival. Note that it is only possible to apply for one if there is no Eritrean Embassy in your country of residence; I bypassed that by stating my Latvian address in the application. I actually own a flat in Latvia and have plenty of proof of residence, but, to my surprise, I was not asked to provide any. I have also heard that a fellow traveller used a friend’s address to apply for a visa on arrival in the same way with no issues.

Visa on arrival does not require an embassy visit, but still needs to be approved by the Department of Immigration and Nationality of Eritrea before your trip. My visa on arrival took approximately four weeks to be approved, after which I received a photo snap of the approval to be presented at check-in. Note that the FlyDubai representative at the check-in desk also insisted to see that I had a passport photo with me, and this is actually listed among the IATA requirements for a visa on arrival to Eritrea. Nobody asked for a passport photo at Asmara airport – the visa was issued without it – but do make sure to carry one to avoid being denied boarding.

Upon arrival in Asmara, I paid $70 in cash for my visa. The process was uneventful but painfully slow at around two hours: I was the second last person to exit the airport that morning.

CHOOSING A TOUR OPERATOR IN ERITREA

Finally, I have run an online comparison across five Western-based tour operators offering organised trips to Eritrea, which ranged between $171 (Young Pioneer Tours) and $356 (Steppes) per person per day based on travelling as a group, two people sharing a hotel room and not taking into account differences in hotel quality, meal plans or length of time (if any) spent on Dahlak. The average price came to $247 per person per day.

Technically, I did not need to book a tour. Travelling independently in Eritrea is possible and a much cheaper alternative to booking a costly tour, especially given how inexpensive Eritrea is on the ground. Based on what I hear from fellow travellers, it is becoming increasingly easy to obtain an Eritrean visa directly, without a letter of invitation, though requirements vary widely by embassy. I have heard good feedback on Eritrean embassies / consulates in Stockholm, Abu Dhabi, Washington DC and Melbourne, while the Moscow embassy is reportedly unfriendly.

I booked a tour for three reasons. First, my nearest embassy in London was not answering calls and did not have a functioning website or email address while my trip was mere weeks away. Second, I was planning to spend two full weeks in Eritrea on holiday from work and needed everything to go as smoothly as possible. Third, I was dead set on seeing every place in Eritrea open to foreign visitors and could not afford to risk losing even one. Whilst it is possible to apply for travel permits for each destination independently at the Eritrean Ministry of Tourism, involvement of a local tour agency reportedly increases the chances of all such permits being granted. All independent travellers to Eritrea I have spoken to visited for less than a week and did not cover areas outside Asmara, Massawa and Keren.

That said, I did not enjoy seeing my savings go down by a full digit and will most certainly travel to Eritrea independently next time.

WHERE TO GO IN ERITREA

Roughly the same size as North Korea (and, some might argue, the similarities do not end there), Eritrea may seem small enough to cover in a matter of days. This, however, is deceiving as travelling around the country is not straightforward. Outside Asmara, transferring from one destination to another invariably involves backtracking to the capital city and de facto transit hub. Moreover, while main motorways are in a reasonably good shape, their many bends will inevitably slow down your journey.

ASMARA

A classic itinerary in Eritrea covers the cities of Asmara, Massawa and Keren. The capital, Asmara, is truly the jewel in Eritrea’s crown and a highlight for many visitors. Albeit relatively little known compared to many African capitals, Asmara is celebrated for its unique Modernist architecture, which won the city a UNESCO World Heritage status in 2017.

Asmara is also wonderfully calm. There isn’t a single functioning traffic light, and traffic remains blissfully light at all times, making Asmara a perfect place to pass a few peaceful moments over fabulous food (see the Food in Eritrea section below), superb traditionally brewed coffee and the ubiquitous Asmara beer. Many visitors rush through the city, but I recommend planning an extra day or two there with no plans whatsoever – and who knows which architectural treasure will emerge from around the corner to surprise you.

An exciting day trip from Asmara is a ride onboard an old steam locomotive to Nefasit. Negotiating 2.4 km of altitude along the way, the track was considered a masterpiece of Italian engineering when inaugurated in 1912. These days the train runs only with prior reservation, with the largest tour companies typically booking entire cars if they have enough guests in the country at a given time.

Thanks to its focus on Italian tourists – the largest tourist group visiting Eritrea – EriNine are probably the safest company to travel with if you have your heart set on the Nefasit train ride. Booking a full car costs an exorbitant $1,050 (although it seats up to 21 passengers), and it is not uncommon for tour companies to try and free ride off competitors. I watched clients of Asmara Grande being helplessly offloaded from the car booked by EriNine, unaware that their payment had secured no guarantee of travel, a process that resulted in a lot of emotion and frayed tempers.

MASSAWA AND KEREN

Massawa and Keren couldn’t be more different. Sat on the Red Sea coast, the sweltering Massawa boasts an Ottoman-styled old town, which is slowly crumbling away from the lack of maintenance and the effects of fighting during the Eritrean War of Independence, yet miraculously maintains plenty of decayed charm and a bustling nightlife. A highland city famous for its Second World War cemeteries and Monday Cattle Market, Keren reminded me more of Sudan than elsewhere in Eritrea. Both cities could be visited on day trips from Asmara, but adding at least one night in each is recommended for a fuller experience.

Day or half-day trip options from Massawa are the archaeological site of Adulis, the “Pompeii” of Africa (three muddy holes in the ground only an expert would find impressive – sorry, Adulis!) and Gurgusum beach (underwhelming compared to Dahlak but a nice break from the heat of Massawa). Keren is typically visited as a one-day, one-night trip from Asmara and does not offer any day trip options, largely as it is at the boundary of where foreigners are currently allowed to explore.

Massawa also serves as the gateway to the spectacular Dahlak archipelago. At around $1-2k for a 2-day trip depending on which islands are covered and the degree of comfort, it is admittedly an expensive addition to the itinerary. There is no public transport to the islands besides the long boats used by locals, and tourists are unlikely to be issued travel permits to Dahlak if not travelling on an arranged excursion. This means that an entire boat along with a captain, his mate and a cook needs to be chartered for however many days, and all necessary supplies brought along from the mainland.

Tourists typically camp on small, uninhabited islands of the Dahlak in very basic conditions. Shower facilities are non-existent, and, whilst a camp toilet is supposed to be used, it was out of order when I arrived on Dur Gaam. I made do by digging holes and making a good use of tidal flows, but the situation grew critical when a group of 10 Italians descended upon the camp on the second day. The new guests frequented every inland bush around the camp with not an implement for digging a hole between them, and I dare not think of the state of the tiny island after the five days the group had intended to stay. I was, however, not surprised when I later heard that three of these travellers got so sick that they had to be taken to hospital. I can only stress that, if you go to Dahlak, remember basic hygiene.

OFF THE BEATEN PATH

Besides the above destinations and activities, tourists can also visit Adi Quala, a town famous for the Coptic Church of Madonna with elaborate frescoes inside, and Adi Keyh, a non-remarkable town serving as a gateway to Senafe and Kohaito, two settlements boasting archaeological sites and spectacular views. Both Adi Quala and Adi Keyh lie on the routes leading south to Ethiopia, greatly revived by the recent reopening of the borders between the two countries. Climbing Mount Metara dominating the otherwise flat dozy town of Senafe was without doubt one of the absolute highlights of my visit to Eritrea.

Foreign visitors to Eritrea will need to secure permits from the Ministry of Tourism to visit areas outside Asmara as well as the so-called Tank Graveyard in the outskirts of Asmara (massive piles of junk metal lying around – what’s not to like?). In a testament to the prevailing bureaucracy, each area commands a separate permit. Permits for places on the standard tourist trail, including Massawa and Keren, are straightforward to receive but are reportedly randomly denied for sensitive areas such as Dahlak. Having a fixer involved apparently helps to speed up the process and increase the probability of success: it took us exactly half a day (a Saturday, no less) to receive eight permits, covering us for the entire two weeks, all done as we explored Asmara in blissful ignorance to the bureaucratic hoops being jumped through. These permits do get checked in hotels and checkpoints on the southern routes leading to Adi Quala and Adi Keyh, so do not even dream of bypassing them.

Most visitors to Eritrea arrive on arranged tours that include hired vehicles and drivers. I understand that it is possible for foreigners to hire a car directly after obtaining a temporary driving licence, reportedly a hassle-free process; I would love to hear from you if you have successfully rented a car in Eritrea as a foreign tourist. Roads in Eritrea are in a reasonably good condition, but some require a 4WD, including the route between Massawa and Adulis and areas around Adi Quala, Adi Keyh and Senafe. Introducing a 4WD to the entourage balloons costs significantly: the price I paid for my package would have been around 60% higher based on using 4WD only. Save your cash: a 4WD is not necessary on the standard Asmara – Massawa – Keren route.

There are no operating domestic flights in Eritrea. Independent travellers can get around by public buses and minibuses to popular destinations like Massawa and Keren, but departures from Asmara to the south are significantly fewer: I saw many locals trying to hitch rides on the side of the road amid nearly non-existent traffic. It is therefore far safer to charter a vehicle if you are planning to visit Adi Quala and Adi Keyh.

Overall, I was happy with my 14-day itinerary in Eritrea. It would have definitely been possible to see all of the destinations I covered in 2-3 days fewer, but I enjoyed having downtime and going with the flow, Eritrean style. If your time is limited, I recommend the following 10-day itinerary: Asmara (2 days), Massawa (1 day; three days were excessive even by my standards), Dahlak (2 days), Keren (1 day) and Adi Keyh and the surrounding areas (2 days), allowing two more days for the various transfers.

WHERE TO STAY IN ERITREA

MASSAWA: GRAND DAHLAK HOTEL

($70 double)

With a handful of cheaper hotels in Massawa, the battered Grand Dahlak seems to be the preferred choice of most visitors to Massawa, including wealthier Eritreans who descend here on weekends. Designed, for the most part, in the traditional Arabic Kasbah style, the hotel was originally envisaged as part of a much larger complex – the dream that never materialised.

With crumbling walls, exclusively cold water, mouldy swimming pool, WiFi not working for most hours of the day and lights only randomly coming on, it was obvious that Grand Dahlak had seen better days. I enjoyed it though: first, for the phenomenal sunrise views across the causeway and, second, for the very Spartan plastic chairs and tables – the extension of the nearby outdoor bar – arranged right by the water, the no-frills experience defying the outward grandeur of the hotel itself. Oh, and the bar boasts its very own pet rooster who has full rights to roam around tables and terrify the non-suspecting guests. What’s not to like?

KEREN: SARINA HOTEL

($50 double)

A relatively modern hotel near the entrance to Keren, this was possibly the best value-for-money hotel I stayed in in all of Eritrea. The water was the hottest anywhere, WiFi worked and the dimly lit bar downstairs was atmospheric enough. The main disadvantage of Sarina – that of being located at least a 30-minute walk from the centre of Keren – wasn’t a big problem.

As Sarina was overrun by a loud cacophony of Italians when we were there, my guide was forced into the centrally located Keren Hotel and returned with horror stories. Known for its simple restaurant and sweeping rooftop views, Keren Hotel apparently ruins its rap with squalid rooms and shared showers. I am sure an intrepid traveller would easily survive such minor inconveniences though, and the location is to die for.

ADI KEYH: CENTRAL HOTEL

($40 double)

The only option in Adi Keyh (gateway to Kohaito and Senafe), Central is a family-run hotel with simple rooms and a dingy downstairs bar spilling into a somewhat grubby paved courtyard. The hotel has a good reputation, but I was out of luck: the entire region had experienced a major power outage during my visit and there was no electricity anywhere. Very surprisingly for an establishment of its kind, Central Hotel did not own a generator, and things got progressively worse as the hotel quickly ran out of running water, too. In addition, the courtyard’s open-entrance toilet obviously served as a pit stop for locals slipping in and out: some spent long minutes there performing all sorts of oblations in full public view as various smells creeped out towards guests for the lack of an obstacle. I eventually ran out of patience and fled to the much nicer (and generator-equipped) Milkias bar next-door.

DAHLAK ARCHIPELAGO

Finally, a word on Dahlak. Tourists normally camp out in tents on small uninhabited islands in the archipelago, and conditions can vary widely. My tent was large enough to stand in and fit two canvas camp beds in addition to two people’s belongings. I was given a small pillow and a single sheet as bedding, which I folded in half and used as a sheet and blanket simultaneously. The resulting narrow hard bed was incredibly uncomfortable: I highly recommend bringing a sleeping bag and sleeping on the ground instead.

LANGUAGE IN ERITREA

MONEY IN ERITREA

The local currency is the Eritrean nakfa (Nf), so named after the city of Nakfa, the site of the first major victory in the Eritrean War of Independence. The nakfa is officially pegged to the US dollar (15 Nf = $1), the rate offered at the several official Humbol exchange bureaus in Asmara city and airport. The black-market rate for the US dollar is not far off at around 18 Nf. I mainly brought Euros into Eritrea (official/black rate of 17/19.5 Nf), which worked out well; I hear that British pounds are also readily exchanged. The only two occasions on which I had to use US dollars were for my visa on arrival at the airport ($70) and the return locomotive ride from Asmara to Nefasit ($60).

Remember that exchanging foreign currency on the black market is illegal: foreigners are unlikely to have the necessary connections to do so smoothly and are very likely to stand out while doing so. It is therefore advisable to leave any such machinations to a local friend, who will likely have their well-established channels. It is also recommended to make your first exchange at an official Humbol bureau and keep the receipt in case you are queried about your source of nakfa. You can arrange any subsequent transactions on the black market.

For some reason it is not allowed to carry too much nakfa out of Eritrea. I have been quoted different limits, most recently in person at the Asmara airport of 1,000 Nf. Nobody checked the exact amount I was carrying, and I am not sure why anyone would choose to smuggle out the currency that is effectively worthless abroad. There are a few shops inside the departure area of the airport that will happily accept your last remaining nakfa – I found the Awghet Book Shop particularly captivating.

Note that foreign credit or debit cards do not work in Eritrea and there are no ATMs anywhere.

INTERNET IN ERITREA

My mobile phone with a UK SIM refused to connect to a network in Eritrea, robbing me of access to mobile data. I understand that this is the case for all foreign SIM users in Eritrea. A local SIM is cumbersome to buy and would hardly be of any use: there is no 3G network in Eritrea, with even locals not being able to access mobile data. However, Ethiopian networks offering data are accessible in border areas such as the town of Senafe, and some Eritreans use Ethiopian SIMs to access data in the border-adjacent areas.

There are plenty of restaurants in Asmara, though many specialise in fast food or Italian cuisine rather than traditional Eritrean fare. My favourite restaurant in the city was Ghibabo: set in a layered open-air courtyard around the corner from Asmara’s Opera building, it provides fantastic atmosphere and is popular with locals and expats. At around 180 Nf per meal of tsebhi and taita, it is a little on the expensive side. Cheaper restaurants I liked include New Fork off Harnet Avenue (100-150 Nf per meal in an atmospheric, dimly lit setting) and Pizzeria Napoli on Adi Hawesha St (100-150 Nf per medium pizza, lively and popular among locals despite pizza being very average to a European palette), and there are plenty of smaller no-frills eateries scattered around Asmara.

Dining options diminish significantly outside Asmara. In Massawa, I was recommended a Christian-run restaurant called Banuna in the old town: their spicy fish was so incredibly good that I returned every single day. In Keren, I had a solid meal at Keren Hotel (mixed meat was delicious), albeit amid a complete lack of atmosphere. The two main choices in Adi Keyh are Milano (their fata is excellent) and Milkias (slow service but good food amid lively buzz). Finally, on Dur Gaam island in the Dahlak archipelago I enjoyed amazing meals of fresh fish, pasta and salad from a cook who typically spends a few weeks on the island at a time camping out in a tent. That home-cooked food was my favourite during my entire stay in Eritrea.

When it comes to after-hours, Eritreans definitely love their bars. Central Asmara alone boasts dozens, while life in old Massawa – albeit majority Muslim – seems to revolve around multiple adjacent drinking joints. The staple drink on offer is the creatively named Asmara beer, a very decent lager produced at Asmara Brewery and normally priced at 12-20 Nf per 0.3 litre bottle depending on the establishment. Interestingly, beer generally costs more in shops, which, for the lack of a necessary licence, typically resell bottles purchased from bars and restaurants.

Following the opening of the borders with Ethiopia, several Ethiopian beer brands have also made their way into Eritrea and are priced similarly to Asmara beer: I particularly liked Balageru pale lager.

My favourite bars in Eritrea were Albergo Italia in Asmara (fabulous nostalgic setting in a namesake hotel), Bar Impero in Asmara (excellent people watching on Harnet Avenue), Savoiya in Massawa (plastic chairs and tables and blasting local music included in the price of excellently chilled beer) and Milkias in Adi Keyh (cheapest Asmara beer I found anywhere and lively when there is football being shown). You will definitely not go thirsty in Eritrea. Oh, and the coffee was universally amazing.

WHAT TO WEAR IN ERITREA

It isn’t for nothing that Eritreans refer to their country as “three seasons in two hours”. Thanks to altitude differences, Eritrea has a variety of climates. At an elevation of over 2.3 km, Asmara, Adi Keyh and Senafe are pleasant year-round, with temperatures averaging in the mid-teens (Celsius, obviously) and rainy season falling in July and August. Coastal areas including Massawa and Dahlak can get fiercely hot in the summer and receive some rain amid intense humidity in the winter. Keren falls somewhere between the two, at 1.5 km above sea level understandably more resembling other highland regions.

I visited Eritrea in late December and early January, and can attest to that being a perfect time to be in the country: temperatures in the highlands fell notably at night but rose to near 20C during the day, while coastal areas were tolerable with high 20C. I lucked out to see not a drop of rain during two weeks. If you are visiting Eritrea in the winter, I recommend packing a thin jacket for the highlands and light cotton summer wear for Massawa and Dahlak.

As far as local attitudes, I found Eritreans to be relatively liberal towards dress. Men can expect to dress the same as they do at home, though I didn’t see any sleeveless tops worn by locals. Local women in Asmara can be seen donning fairly open clothes, exposing calves and shoulders without hesitation. The same cannot be said about more conservative, majority Muslim cities of Massawa and Keren or rural areas where women are often wrapped from head to toe in single bright sheets of fabric. I tried to stay on the cautious side and brought several long loose dresses alongside more summery ones going to the knees, and found that both worked fine. I would probably avoid flaunting bare shoulders anywhere outside Asmara, but nobody in Eritrea will lynch a foreigner over their choice of clothing. Bikini on the Gurgusum beach and Dahlak is absolutely fine.

HUMAN RIGHTS IN ERITREA

I cannot conclude this post without mentioning Eritrea’s infamous record on human rights. Countless articles have been written on the subject, most of them by people far better qualified than me – but here we are. Doing your research before travelling to Eritrea will help you understand the country and its people better, and, in light of serious reported human rights violations, I recommend that you do not visit Eritrea blindly.

Eritrea has been displaying a number of classic symptoms of a dictatorship since its victory in 1991 in the prolonged Eritrean War of Independence. Its record on the freedom of speech is abysmal. The president, Isaias Afewerki, in power since 1993, has been accused of silencing critics by making them disappear and imprisoning journalists without trial. Eritrea ranked 7 out of 7 (the lowest ranking) in the 2018 Freedom in the World index, as well as in prior years and had the second least free press in the world as of 2018 (after North Korea).

Amid this bleak reality, signs of hope are emerging. After peace with Ethiopia was declared in July 2018, ending the long-standing conflict and allowing Eritrea to return to the international scene, the latest national service recruits were reportedly told that their enlistment would not exceed 18 months. While similar announcements have been made in the past – and never acted upon – the formal ending of the war effectively eliminated the major enemy the establishment has consistently used to justify interminable national service. It remains to be seen what course the Eritrean authorities choose to take and whether change is indeed coming to Eritrea.

OTHER WRITTEN ACCOUNTS ON ERITREA

Browsing around popular existing blog articles for Eritrea written by fellow travellers left me disappointed. Most lacked depth, presented inaccurate information or were hopelessly out of date. The two traveller-penned posts listed below are the only ones I feel comfortable to recommend, but please feel free to share with me links to good posts on Eritrea not mentioned here.